Best of Botswana, Victoria Falls & Cape Town, Winelands….
May 12-24 2010 Trip Report - Page 4
Escorted by: Cindi LaRaia
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 Now for our afternoon game drive we decided to leave very early at 3:00pm, this would be our last chance to find the wild dog in the area. Kai the environmental specialist had been out all day tracking them. He had collared 2 of the 3 packs of dog here. Wouldn’t you know the 1 pack he did not collar were the ones that guides from a sister camp 2 hrs away found! They lay in the bush during the day and the only way to spot them is to look for the tops of the large ears they have in the bush. When they wake up at 5:00pm, you only have 15 minutes with them before they are on the hunt through the thick bush. We blasted as fast as possible, as he heard they found them and we had to boogie if we wanted to see them! This meant no stopping for high tea he packed or no potty break, hold it kids we MUST see these African Wild Dog!
On this wild ride we counted 105 elephant on the way. A journey of giraffe, a family of banded mongoose, a dazzle of zebra, ostrich, however no wild dog yet. Now finally he gets the call, hurry they woke up! My goodness we went like hell, and there before our eyes 2 wild hours later, we see them, 11 in this pack. Hanging out in the road, there were 3 vehicles and they did not care. Finally my first wild dog sighting after 15 safaris! I was very emotional about this, they are very difficult to find and see and this was a healthy pack! This pack had 2 alpha males and 2 alpha males, a bit unusual, the rest were the pups. The dominant Alphas will do the mating. They need enough baby sitters to defend the den while the parents go off to hunt, they move around a lot finding new dens so the pups stay safe. We were sooooo
lucky to see them! I was beside myself and could not believe they were right here in front of my face, or my lens I should say.
This was a 6 STAR DAY!!! ****** the ride home we could not stop for our sundowners as we had to drive slower and now took 2.5 hrs to get back. We saw Hyena and Sable on the way back, a big male Kudu and females, and soooo many elephant! So we had our sundowners as soon as we got to camp in celebration of our wonderful luck!!
 ‘IT IS IRONIC THAT THE MOST SOCIAL OF ALL MAMMALS ARE ALSO AMONG THE MOST ENDANGERED’
Lycaon pictus (Latin for "painted wolf") is an apt name for the African wild dog. Their body is similar to that of a wolf but the ears are larger and more rounded: they help keep them cool and allow them to hear very well.. Each dog's marking is unique - splotches of black, pale yellow-brown, blonde and white. The muzzle is black and the tip of the tail is always white. The fur is short but shaggy and is a little longer at the end of the tail and around the throat. There is a dark stripe of fur on the forehead. Dogs vary in size from 35 lbs to 70 lbs and stand about 24 inches at the shoulder. They have four digits on each foot and are extremely lean, muscular animals with long slender legs.
Once common in all areas of Africa, except rain forest and deserts, African wild dogs are extinct or nearly extinct in nearly 32 countries of their former range, and the remaining populations are too small to remain viable. Of the six countries where they still exist, only three (Botswana, Tanzania and South Africa) have populations of more than 300 dogs.
-- Taken from the Wild Dog Foundation
Our last morning game drive at DumaTau was fantastic, we saw a giant eagle owl baby that was big, a harrier hawk, ‘matela’ tracks of 2 lioness, white backed vulture, 19 hippos, Africa fish eagle and a tawny eagle, what an amazing morning!
 It was time for us to leave and head to Victoria Falls where the Falls where in full splendor and glory! One of the ‘natural seven wonders of the world’! Our pilot was fantastic and he flew us over at every possible angle to see the gorge and both sides from Zambia and Zimbabwe. The spray was magnificent and they can be seen from outer space when in full flood. The Victoria Falls are the widest curtain of falls in the world’ at 1708 meters wide and drops more than 100 meters into the sheer Zambezi Gorge. The Tonga and Makalolo people lived here for centuries before the falls were ‘discovered’ by David Livingstone in 1855. The national park that holds the falls is called Mosi-Oa-Tunya ‘the smoke that thunders’.
We stayed 2nts at the lovely Toka Leya camp which sets at the edge, literally of the Zambezi River, water levels very high here also with amazing views from the main area of the river swiftly moving by at about 6 knots. Excellent food with a real pizza oven and a friendly loving staff compliment this outstanding camp; accommodation on wooden walkways are tented and very expansive.
Our included activities were a boat ride on the Zambezi to see crocks and hippos and birds. We went for the most outrageous walk on the Zambian side of the falls that somehow had us looking across the falls even though we were staying in Zambia. We doffed plastic covers and a thick waterproof poncho, our guide walked us through what felt like we were walking through a cyclone! The steps and bridge we walked on were in full waterfall themselves and the spray so strong it took your breath away, we were deluged and it was so exhilarating, Steve said “that was orgasmic’ It was! When a slight gap in the spray would open, there were the mighty falls at eye level in front of us pouring over the edge with giant leaping fury! What a blast!
We then went for a game drive in the park to see general game and the only 5 rhino in Zambia. Unreal. The poaching has been the main concern and full out efforts are in place to stop it and slow it down. These Rhino are tightly protected by an anti poaching squad that walk with them, and keep a close eye on
them. We in turn were able to go on foot to photograph the ‘big boy’ only because they are used to humans on foot trying to keep them safe.
Last but not least we flew to Cape Town for 3nts my favorite way to end our safaris if in southern Africa, what better way to gradually get back to civilization (yuk). Staying at the Victoria and Alfred hotel on the waterfront with views of Table Mountain also within walking distance of malls and restaurants, is the only way to go. We did a half day tour to Cape Point and walked with the African Penguins they used to be called Jack Ass but have been given a new name. We visited my friend in Stellenbosch at her home she had bubbly and lovely nibblies then had lunch at the wonderful Terrior Restaurant on her golf course.
The next day we did a full Winelands tour to Stellenbosch & Franschhoek (my personal fav), the scenery is like no other with the rugged, jagged topped mountain ranges that are made of the same sandstone as Table Mountain. Visited several wineries and had lunch at the amazing Bread & Wine restaurant in Franschhoek in the lovely garden outside. Enjoyed estate Moreson wine with lunch and had a lovely day all together.
Sadly this concludes our story of yet another magical adventure in my beloved Africa. Thank you Harry & Hana, Steve & Gloria, Sharlene and Eric for such enjoyable companionship and days filled with fun, laughter and special moments in the bush!
-- Cindi LaRaia
 
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